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Reference

Escape Routes and Fire Safety

Every restraining device on this site is described alongside this page, because the failure mode of home security is not a break-in. It is a family that cannot get out of a bedroom, or a crew that cannot get into one.

The rule that outranks everything else here

Security hardware works by making an opening harder to use. Escape works by making an opening easy to use. Those two goals point in opposite directions, and every time somebody fits a bolt, a bar, a grille or a window stop they are choosing a point on that line. The choice is legitimate. Making it without noticing is not.

The practical test is simple and it does not require a code book. In the dark, in smoke, half asleep, with no shoes on and no idea where the keys are, can everybody who sleeps in this house get out through the openings they would reach for? If the answer for any room is no, that room has a problem that no lock is going to solve.

Bedrooms are treated as needing a way out

Model building codes in the United States treat rooms used for sleeping as needing an emergency escape and rescue opening: a window or door of a certain size, low enough to reach, that opens from inside without a key, a tool or special knowledge. The exact numbers are set by the code your local jurisdiction has adopted, and jurisdictions differ, so this page does not quote figures. What travels everywhere is the principle behind them.

The phrase to hold on to is the last part: without a key, a tool or special knowledge. It is the reason a keyed window stop belongs on a bathroom and not on a child’s bedroom. It is the reason a double-cylinder deadbolt, which needs a key on the inside as well as the outside, is a decision to think hard about on any door that is somebody’s way out at three in the morning. And it is the reason a security bar you have to remember how to release is a worse device than one you cannot get wrong.

  • Sleeping rooms are expected to have an opening usable for escape, and for a firefighter to come in through.
  • That opening should work from the inside with hands alone, in the dark.
  • A device that limits how far a window opens is different from a device that stops it opening. The first can be made compatible with escape; the second cannot.
  • If a window is painted shut, seized, or blocked by furniture, it is already failing this test before anybody adds hardware.

Window stops and window opening control devices

There is an established idea in window safety called a window opening control device: something that limits how far a window opens, usually to reduce the risk of a child falling, but which releases from inside so the opening can still be used to get out. That combination — limits, but releases — is the shape a bedroom window stop has to have. A stop that clamps the track and needs a key is not that shape.

Falls from windows are a long-standing consumer safety concern, and the general advice from safety bodies has been consistent for years: screens keep insects out and do not hold a child in, furniture near a window is a climbing frame, and a window that opens a few inches for ventilation is safer than one that opens fully in a room where a small child sleeps. All of that sits alongside, not instead of, keeping the opening usable in an emergency.

Interior bolts, braces and reinforcement locks

A flip latch or brace fitted high on a front door adds a second point of restraint away from the deadbolt. It also does something people rarely say out loud: it makes the door impossible to open from outside by anybody at all. Not a burglar, and not a paramedic responding to a call from the person on the other side of it.

That is why the honest framing for these devices is a thing you engage while you are inside and awake, and release when you go to bed or go out. Used that way they are a reasonable layer. Left engaged as a permanent state on a door that is the only entrance to a home where somebody lives alone, they are a hazard that is invisible until the day it matters.

  1. Decide who in the household could be alone behind the door, and whether anybody would be able to reach them.
  2. Make releasing the device part of the routine for going to bed, not an afterthought.
  3. Tell everybody who lives there how it works, including guests and anybody who stays overnight.
  4. If somebody in the household could not release it unaided, do not fit it.

Bars and grilles you have inherited

Plenty of homes come with security bars already on the windows, fitted by somebody who is long gone. Bars with a release mechanism, operable from inside without a key or tool, are designed to be compatible with escape. Bars that are simply bolted across an opening are not, and on a bedroom window they are a serious problem rather than a cosmetic one.

If you have inherited fixed bars on a room somebody sleeps in, that is worth money and a phone call. A locksmith or a glazier can say whether a release mechanism can be retrofitted, and your local fire department will often talk through the situation with you. Do not assume it is fine because it was there when you moved in.

The plan that costs nothing

The single highest-value thing on this entire website is free, takes twenty minutes, and involves no hardware at all: work out two ways out of every room, walk them, and agree where everybody meets outside. Fire safety organizations have pushed this for decades because it works, and because the alternative is making decisions about routes while the decisions are hard to make.

  1. Draw the floor plan roughly and mark two ways out of each room, one of which is usually a window.
  2. Check that every one of those windows actually opens, from inside, by the people who sleep in that room.
  3. Pick a meeting point outside, in front of the house, that a small child can find in the dark.
  4. Walk it once with everybody who lives there, including anybody who stays regularly.
  5. Test the smoke alarms while you are at it, and note which rooms do not have one.

Where this page is not the answer

This is general information about how to think, not a code reference and not advice about your building. Requirements are set by the code your jurisdiction has adopted and, in a shared or rented building, by the building’s own arrangements. Your local fire department, your building official and your landlord or building manager are the people who can speak to your specific situation. Ask them before altering anything that affects a way out.

Related work

Sources